Step 1: Common to all types of RC airplanes-Radio
First before you choose the type of airplane you want to build and fly, lets go over what is common to most RC airplanes.
The radio transmitter and receiver: This is your link to the aircraft never scrimp when it comes to the radio, if it glitches you can crash or worse hurt someone. Radios come with two or more channels, the channels are also not what you think, they are not separate frequencies, instead they are each control. Most airplanes have 4 channels, rudder, ailerons, throttle and elevator. Sailplanes have just two or three. Radio transmitters are also on several radio frequencies and are set by the user by changing the matching crystals in the transmitter and receiver. Unless you have a newer radio that uses ultra high frequencies in the 2.4 gigahertz range, these radio's do not require crystals.
The radio receiver on gas powered aircraft is powered by a rechargeable battery, on an electric it can be powered by the same battery that powers the propeller threw a battery eliminator circuit.
The power is usually 4.6 to 6volts.
I have used several brands, most were good, as long as its a name brand one like Futaba, Airtronics, HiTec, or Tower hobbies (made by Futaba).
Its also a good idea if you plan on having more than one airplane you can get an extra receiver on the same frequency and use one radio with several airplanes. This is what I do, I have a programmable radio with six memories so I can switch between them. I simply bought a receiver for each airplane, much cheaper than another radio.
The radio transmitter and receiver: This is your link to the aircraft never scrimp when it comes to the radio, if it glitches you can crash or worse hurt someone. Radios come with two or more channels, the channels are also not what you think, they are not separate frequencies, instead they are each control. Most airplanes have 4 channels, rudder, ailerons, throttle and elevator. Sailplanes have just two or three. Radio transmitters are also on several radio frequencies and are set by the user by changing the matching crystals in the transmitter and receiver. Unless you have a newer radio that uses ultra high frequencies in the 2.4 gigahertz range, these radio's do not require crystals.
The radio receiver on gas powered aircraft is powered by a rechargeable battery, on an electric it can be powered by the same battery that powers the propeller threw a battery eliminator circuit.
The power is usually 4.6 to 6volts.
I have used several brands, most were good, as long as its a name brand one like Futaba, Airtronics, HiTec, or Tower hobbies (made by Futaba).
Its also a good idea if you plan on having more than one airplane you can get an extra receiver on the same frequency and use one radio with several airplanes. This is what I do, I have a programmable radio with six memories so I can switch between them. I simply bought a receiver for each airplane, much cheaper than another radio.
Step 2: Common to all types of RC airplanes-Servo's
Servo's: The strong geared electric motor used to make the flaps, rudder and throttle work. These come in several sizes and are rated by how much torque they can produce. They plug into the receiver via a three conductor wire.
They are proportional, meaning that if you move the control stick just a fraction of an inch the control surface moves just a fraction of an inch, like wise move the control allot and the surfaces move allot.
The top part of the servo has a "horn" that you can attach the push rods to.
This set up provides the motion for moving everything on your airplane from the throttle to the rudder. Pictured below is a straightforward setup were the throttle servo is up top is pushing a plastic flexible type push rod. The center servo is controlling the rudder and the bottom servo is connected to the elevator.
Like the radio I would stick with a good brand and I test them before installing them into the aircraft by actuating them for several minutes wile shaking them in my hand. if they glitch during this test return it for a new one.
For most gas powered aircraft you will use the standard size to high torque, the electrics use micro or nano sized servo's that weigh a few ounces.
Step 3: Control's
The direction you move the control sticks needs to be the same for everything you try to fly so you don't have to teach yourself a new aircraft every time.
Below is a diagram showing what stick controls what.
If you stay with this set up you will be able to keep graduating up to larger more maneuverable aircraft.
Below is a diagram showing what stick controls what.
If you stay with this set up you will be able to keep graduating up to larger more maneuverable aircraft.
Step 4: Choosing what will power your airplane, Electric?
Electrics are usually smaller aircraft cleaner and quieter, and they come in a variety of sizes and materials. Here are some pro's and con's of electrics.
Pro's: Quiet, cheap airframe, clean, many ready to flies on the market, small size easy to transport, smaller flying area.
Cons: Large ones are pricey, batteries are very finicky (Li-Po's), fragile foam, small airframes less stable in wind.
Weight is very critical in an electric, batteries will be the heaviest part of this type of aircraft.
Everything you can do to save weight will improve flight time and performance.
The newest type of batteries are lithium polymer or Li-Po batteries. They are very light compared to the Ni-cad and Nimh batteries. Li-Po's do have a down side, you have to charge them with a balanced charger that will charge each cell to a matched voltage, you also cannot drain the battery fully without damaging it. Crash hard enough and you will get a nice Hollywood fire.
Despite this they are the best choice for a stunt plane because of their high current capability and low weight.
If you should crash your plane with a Li-Po battery in it, remove the battery as quick as you can and lay it on the ground for at least half an hour.
DO NOT put it in your car after a crash. I have read several articles about a person who done this and lost the plane and their CAR to a nice fire.
Pro's: Quiet, cheap airframe, clean, many ready to flies on the market, small size easy to transport, smaller flying area.
Cons: Large ones are pricey, batteries are very finicky (Li-Po's), fragile foam, small airframes less stable in wind.
Weight is very critical in an electric, batteries will be the heaviest part of this type of aircraft.
Everything you can do to save weight will improve flight time and performance.
The newest type of batteries are lithium polymer or Li-Po batteries. They are very light compared to the Ni-cad and Nimh batteries. Li-Po's do have a down side, you have to charge them with a balanced charger that will charge each cell to a matched voltage, you also cannot drain the battery fully without damaging it. Crash hard enough and you will get a nice Hollywood fire.
Despite this they are the best choice for a stunt plane because of their high current capability and low weight.
If you should crash your plane with a Li-Po battery in it, remove the battery as quick as you can and lay it on the ground for at least half an hour.
DO NOT put it in your car after a crash. I have read several articles about a person who done this and lost the plane and their CAR to a nice fire.
Step 5: Choosing what will power your airplane, Fuel?
Nitro or Gas powered are the "Kings" of the RC airplane world, real airplanes burn fuel and so do these. Most common are two cycle high RPM engines will enough power to get the job done twice. Other are gasoline burning and 4 stroke.
Pro's: large scale airframes, longer flight times, engines as cheap as some batteries(Li-Po), the sound is cool, kits are very cheap, extra power means more detail on airframe like retractable landing gears, Larger frames not as bad to fly in light winds.
Cons: Noisy, oily, engine maintenance, high speed of some means hard to control, larger take off area, takes up allot more room in your car, complicated build, need more support equipment.
Most of the gas planes are 2 cycle glow fuel powered, they use a spacial fuel available at most real hobby stores in quart to gallon size bottles. Its a nitro-methane alcohol, oil mixture that lubricates these engines as they run. The fuel also comes in different nitro-methane content such as 10% to 35% nitro. As you guessed more Nitro is more power. Just don't get carried away with it, you can burn up a motor with to much nitro.
These engines are called glow engines because they use a small glow plug to maintain the spark for ignition. you simply use a battery to heat it up and start the engine.
Their are also 4 stroke engines that use the same fuel, they have valves just like a car engine, the big advantage is more torque for bigger propellers, and better fuel economy. The down side is price and a few more engine parts to worry about adjustment and breaking.
Most engines also require you break them in when they are new, if you just start running them out of the box the parts will heat up to fast and wear out way to fast. Most of the break in procedure will be in the instructions that come with the engine and is a simple process of running the engine very rich for a few tanks of idle running to full throttle running for a whole tank, just make sure you follow the instructions and the engine will last for a long time.
These engine do not require a fuel pump as the exhaust gas pressure is piped into the fuel tank to push the fuel into the carburetor
Starting involves attaching the glow starter, and turning the engine over using the starter motor.
These engines are strong and dangerous, you can lose a finger or two, if you make a mistake. The propellers turn so fast they disappear, so use caution.
Pro's: large scale airframes, longer flight times, engines as cheap as some batteries(Li-Po), the sound is cool, kits are very cheap, extra power means more detail on airframe like retractable landing gears, Larger frames not as bad to fly in light winds.
Cons: Noisy, oily, engine maintenance, high speed of some means hard to control, larger take off area, takes up allot more room in your car, complicated build, need more support equipment.
Most of the gas planes are 2 cycle glow fuel powered, they use a spacial fuel available at most real hobby stores in quart to gallon size bottles. Its a nitro-methane alcohol, oil mixture that lubricates these engines as they run. The fuel also comes in different nitro-methane content such as 10% to 35% nitro. As you guessed more Nitro is more power. Just don't get carried away with it, you can burn up a motor with to much nitro.
These engines are called glow engines because they use a small glow plug to maintain the spark for ignition. you simply use a battery to heat it up and start the engine.
Their are also 4 stroke engines that use the same fuel, they have valves just like a car engine, the big advantage is more torque for bigger propellers, and better fuel economy. The down side is price and a few more engine parts to worry about adjustment and breaking.
Most engines also require you break them in when they are new, if you just start running them out of the box the parts will heat up to fast and wear out way to fast. Most of the break in procedure will be in the instructions that come with the engine and is a simple process of running the engine very rich for a few tanks of idle running to full throttle running for a whole tank, just make sure you follow the instructions and the engine will last for a long time.
These engine do not require a fuel pump as the exhaust gas pressure is piped into the fuel tank to push the fuel into the carburetor
Starting involves attaching the glow starter, and turning the engine over using the starter motor.
These engines are strong and dangerous, you can lose a finger or two, if you make a mistake. The propellers turn so fast they disappear, so use caution.
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